The Enchanted Islands

I think I have finally found the ultimate natural travel destination and the unexpected result is that my conscience is now fighting a theoretical ‘tug-of-war’ between the little voice that says ‘tell the world about it’ and the other that thinks ‘they’ll only go there and spoil it’. So what to do… part of me is so delighted at finding one of the true final frontiers of natural wonder and the other is worried that over time it might become little more than the latest mass-tourism destination. All things considered I think that if people have made it as far as this blog, they must also be the right ‘sort’ to make this decision by themselves.

This destination is far away, it is undoubtedly expensive to get there as well as physically tasking. Interminable hours spent on planes, days in constant motion, and crossing a whole bunch of time-zones means that reaching these small land spots in the ocean is not going to be for everyone. The name of the islands evoke stories of whalers, explorers, sailors and one of the most famous naturalists to ever live. Their appearance is like nothing else on earth, a jumble of volcanic geology, sharp black rocks and white sandy beaches with areas so lush they could easily be mistaken for the jungles of South America. Yet, none of the above attractions are even close to the real reason why people come here; they come here to see the animals. If you haven’t guessed it yet the islands are the Galapagos, one of the most incredible examples of natural diversity known to man. Hundreds of species seemingly working in unison and carrying no preconception - and therefore no fear - of humans allows for some incredibly close contact with specimens that appear too docile to be described as wild animals.



A trip to Galapagos is a ‘once in a lifetime’ affair, or at least this is what it should be. Already now, the feeling that there are too many visitors is felt from the moment you land and you start to meet groups waiting for transport to their nearby boats. The national park has imposed limits to incoming visitors and immigration is strictly controlled ensuring that the islands are not destroyed by humans, but whether that limit is already a little too high is another matter. Official figures put visitor numbers at 180,000 in 2009 which is a huge increase when compared to the 5000 or so people that would come here in the 70’s. Of course the income produced by visitors is plowed back into the local economy and park conservation efforts, and the array of strict park rules imposed by officials should ensure that a balance is kept. In some respects this is a great place to see tourism and conservation in action together. Despite the fact that there is still a lot more that could be done, there are strong underpinnings to make it work. For some, these islands and their continued protection are a parable for our entire planet and our administration of it.

Anyway, back to the animals… Nowhere else on earth can you sit quietly on the beach and enjoy the playful dance of sea lions, the majestic flight of huge colonies of sea birds and then stroll inland to see some of the most incredible creatures that live here: the giant tortoises. It is the closest you will ever come to being in a National Geographic documentary!

All trips here have to be part of an organized cruise. Each boat is different in size and style but the smaller ones are preferable for environmental as well as qualitative reasons, there are even sailing ships going around the islands. When you pick your provider make sure you carefully research and pick the one you feel has the strongest commitment to the environment and the local population. A full list can be found on the International Galapagos Tour Operators Association website.



Once you are on a cruise the captain will have a detailed plan, imposed by the park rangers. Each boat is told exactly where to go and when. This system is devised to avoid island crowding and to play into the strengths of each vessel, yet another reason why a smaller boat is a good choice (they can get into places larger ones cannot reach).

Each day is filled with organized land excursions lead by expert local naturalists and with some time to snorkel and swim with anything from sharks and manta rays to penguins and sea lions. The time in between is usually spent on a beach walking and thinking about life in general. The meals on board give you a chance to chat about the day’s event with your fellow adventurers and to compare photos – which will inevitably feature hundreds of sea lions and blue-footed boobies!



As a lifetime trip it really checks all the boxes: incredible scenery, wonderful local culture, unforgettable wildlife and a general feeling of seclusion that only islands this far away from civilization can give. My advice though is to always ensure that your trip is making the smallest possible environmental impact, no other destination is so capable of feeling it!

Going by gulet

As a keen sporting sailor, the idea of taking to sea in a slow antique fishing vessel was not something that appealed.

I held the belief that it would be for older American travellers looking for something they would call an adventure but most people would just see as snobbish. How wrong I was!

While clunky and ungainly from the outside, the interior of the twin-mast gulet (pronounced gulay) is quite astounding. Space is used ultra-efficiently and everything screams luxury. As someone who spends a lot of his time enduring the cramped conditions of life at sea, this proved a complete shock.

There were communal areas where you could stand up completely unobstructed (even at my 6ft 2in!), cabins with king sized beds, fully-tiled bathrooms and air-conditioning throughout. Add in the fully-stocked bar, handcrafted mahogany detailing and an excellent, helpful crew, it just seemed too good to be true.

On deck, spacious sun-bathing platforms complete with a large dining table provided top-level luxury. And the array of water toys such as kayaks and windsurfs was the veritable icing on what was already an exceedingly good ‘cake’.

Enjoying complete freedom to sail anywhere along the fantastically clear waters of the Turkish coast and Greek Islands, the weather is really the only limiting factor, with the Captain steering to its whims.

When in full sailing mode the boat is quiet and fast and completely clean – very ecological indeed. The odd times when the engine has to be on are rare and generally quiet and unobtrusive.

The Captain loves having people help out or get to grips with the big ship, which is just excellent for big kids like me and for the smaller ones too.

We visited several Greek Islands such as Kos, Symi, Rhodes and Bodrum, Göcek and Marmaris in Turkey. This is a pretty typical route as the sailing times are relatively short with plenty to see at every stop and a whole array of quiet bays to use as lunch spots.

The Archaeology in Rhodes is unbelievable. There are a myriad of fascinating ancient sites but my favourite has to be Lindos with its picturesque village and towering acropolis above.

In Turkey the feeling totally changes, with little village tavernas giving way to more stylish establishments and the gentle sounds of the sea interrupted by the bellowing speakers of local mosques. The food is also completely different with spices replacing simple Greek salads. Arriving in Turkey is an assault to the senses, but definitely a good one.

On the last day of the trip I slowly made my way across the walkway and took a long last look at the gulet. I knew I would eventually come back. It felt like I was leaving not just a boat, but my home on the sea.

Product Review: Freeloader PRO

Part of me is still amazed by the fact that what seems like a simple panel, left sitting in the sun, can store enough power to charge an ipod or a phone. There is something almost supernatural about using this kind of free energy, a feeling I really like!

A little while ago we decided to look for the ultimate personal solar charger, a unit that would do it all and do it in style. Our research took us to Freeloader, arguably the forerunner in personal solar technology. Their solar chargers are well known in the outdoor/adventure community and their new Freeloader Pro is regarded as the top expression of the art of personal solar technology. We decided to put it to the test.

It should be pointed out at this point that we carry a lot of technology on some of our trips. The nature of what we do and the areas we do it in means that we need a whole array of gear from portable GPS devices to the humble ipod and of course phones, laptops and cameras.

The Freeloader Pro is a welcome addition to our traveling gadget shop as it really is very portable; the shell is well designed and folded up takes no more room than a first generation mobile phone or PDA. We were rather worried at first, our research brought up a whole array of negative reviews on the first generation Freeloader model, people were getting varied results, especially in the UK and part of me felt the Freeloader Pro would have the same shortfalls, on the other hand it is the PRO version so expectations were high. That being said I packed it along with the all important camera battery charger, the AA battery charger (an optional extra) and finally the right connections for my iphone, now to find some sun!

This test was carried out in the middle of July in Europe so it probably won’t compare to what you would expect on a typical winter’s day in England, on the other hand it is designed for travel usage so some lucky people will end up using it on the move on some lovely tropical island. I allowed the charger its first full charge via USB (as specified in the instructions) then used it to power-up my camera battery which it did very well. The next charge was going to be fully solar. On a remote beach in France I set the panels for the first proper solar test (a little red double LED shows you the correct charging status) and sat the unit on my towel whilst I went about the typical tourist thing… I gave the unit a whole 6 hours of charge in direct light after which I checked the battery status: 2 out 4 bars on the light ‘halo’ (a neat charge indicator). Not a huge amount but it felt like it would be enough to power my iphone. At the end of a busy beach day I connected it all up and, hey presto, the phone lit up, in a few minutes I was able to charge the phone from half battery to full, for free. Very exciting for a solar newbie!

The next 4 days the solar charger was charged in a similar way, never really ever getting close to full charge, it powered my iphone (notoriously power hungry), my camera once and a portable usb speaker that was always fully charged in a matter of minutes. For my type of usage it turned out to be a nifty little gadget and well worth the investment. The price is a little on the high side when you compare it to the Freeloader and the AA/AAA battery charger as an optional extra seemed a little much but overall you do get the feeling the products are well designed and they don’t feel cheap in anyway.
I think that all in all it can make for an excellent addition to anyone’s travel packing list, it works extremely well as a backup charger and will give you that extra safety net when you are in a remote location. It would not be something I would rely on as my only means of power though, the AA charger never really worked for me, the charge was always minimal and never enough to keep the GPS unit’s high capacity batteries running. On the other hand, I will most definitely be packing it on my next trip, let’s hope it’s to a lovely Caribbean island!

Available from www.solartechnology.co.uk for £69.99 inc VAT

Technical Specification:
Technical Specs Freeloader Pro
• 200mA premium quality crystalline solar cells
• 1600mAh environmentally friendly Li-ion battery – typical battery life is 2 years.
• Freeloader’s solar panels can charge its internal battery in as little as 8 hours or 3 hours when using the supplied USB charging cable
• Supplied with a Master Cable for connecting to a device or CamCaddy and for charging Freeloader Pro from a computers USB
• Supplied with ten adaptors to fit the following:
1) iPod, iPhone, iPhone 3g, iPhone 3gs iTouch, Nano etc
2) Nokia phones using both standard and mini adaptors (2 supplied)
3) All current Samsung phones (2 supplied)
4) All current LG phones
5) All current Sony Ericsson phones
6) Nintendo DS Lite / DSi
7) Mini USB adaptor for Motorola phones, Blackberry and most smartphones, Garmin /
SatMap and most GPS, Bluetooth headsets, PDA’s
8) 4mm tip for Sony PSP, Archos and most MP4 players, 2 way radios, portable DVD players, e-books, digital cameras and PDA’s
• Impact resistant, rust free aluminium body.
• Freeloader holds its battery charge for up to 3 months
• Supplied with detailed user manual

Size – 150 x 63 x 20mm
Weight – 174g

CamCaddy (Included with FreeloaderPro)
• Max operating voltage – 9.5v
• Max battery depth – 67mm

Size – 130 x 71 x 30mm
Weight – 68g

Monkeys, Pythons, and Leeches, Oh My!

A Treehouse Experience In a Rainforest Ecosystem;
by Amy Hale

In a recent quest to find eco-friendly accommodations that would also yield a unique and hopefully adventurous experience in Thailand, I learned that it would be possible, if not a flat-out de rigueur experience, to stay in a “rustic” tree house deep within the jungles of Khao Sok National Park. My mental evaluation went along the lines of: “Jungle + Tree house = I’m there!” At this point I should mention that it’s a running joke within my family that I must have been a tree sprite in a former life. Though the habit should have faded about 20 years ago, I still can’t seem to pass a tree without clambering into, around, or up it. Naturally, I leapt at the opportunity to sleep in one and booked our 4 night stay at “Our Jungle House” (http://krabidir.com/ourjunglehouse/) in Khao Sok National Park near Surat Thani (http://www.khaosok.com/)


Khao Sok National Park is advertised as offering “…an adventure for environmentalists, naturalists or anyone interested in exploring plant and wildlife in a rain forest.” Forty-eight confirmed mammal species including monkeys (gibbons and long-tail macaques), the rare Malaysian sun bear, Asian elephants, civets (leopard cats), flying fox, and the endangered barking deer, along with reptiles (including 46 different kinds of snakes, among them blood and reticulated pythons, king cobras, pit vipers), birds (over 300 species including the majestic hornbill!), 38 species of bats, thousands of insects, and of course leeches all rely upon the trees of the Khao Sok rainforest as shelter, safe haven, food and habitat. In addition, some of the world’s oldest and rarest plant species are found here, including the largest (and perhaps smelliest) flower in the world, the endangered rafflesia, which can bloom up to nearly 3 feet in diameter for only 3 days once a year.

I should have known I was in for a true “jungle immersion experience” when immediately after arriving, I climbed the stairs to the roofdeck atop our treehouse, overlooking the Sok river with a view of the expansive limestone cliffs on the other bank, to find a recently shed snakeskin, approximately 5 feet in length, casually draped over one of the two built-in benches. We assessed the snakeskin and deluded ourselves into believing that it had likely been there for ages and its former inhabitant was long gone and would have no cause to return to our place of residence, at least in the short 4 days we’d be calling it thus. We should have known better. The snakeskin was simply a sign of more wildlife, yet all inhabiting their skins and very much alive, to come.

I shifted my focus to the property and 25 acres of private rainforest and was impressed to learn that all of the accommodations on the property were constructed from local, natural materials in a sustainable fashion; either between two trees or on raised platforms atop stilts to minimize environmental impact. Our Jungle House is only a short 10-minute walk away from the national park; no motorized transport is necessary once you arrive at Our Jungle House (via Surat Thani bus on the main road and then a connecting local tuk-tuk or passing car). Although there is electricity and a minimal level of running water in all of the treehouses, there is no hot water, the toilets cannot accept any paper of any kind, and “brown-outs” were frequent and more often than not, the rule. I took more than one (cold) shower by torch. There was no air conditioning though there was a fan (though it often was not in use, see above); which meant due to the humidity and heat, that using the washroom and attempting to sleep were adventures in their own right! Because the ambient air is always humid, the sheets and towels never fully dried and also smelled vaguely of mold. By the time we left, all of our belongings had attained a base level of dampness.




Even as we felt the boundaries of our personal comfort zones being tested, our adventures were just beginning. On a guided midnight jungle hike, we trekked through wild fruit orchards and ate mangosteen, bananas, lychee, and mangos straight from the trees on the way into the depths of the jungle. We were then treated to a very rare sighting of the elusive civet cat bounding up a tree, and the even rarer sighting of the endangered tiny barking deer amidst a stand of trees deep off the path. Our guide, “Dang,” shod only in flip-flops, a thin t-shirt and shorts scrambled up the difficult and steep terrain of the jungle, often scampering “off roading” into the forest in pursuit of some nocturnal creature or another he believed he spotted or heard, blithely unconcerned with the probability of stepping on any number of sharp rocks, twigs, let alone feeding leeches, mosquitoes, or the very real possibility of a snake in repose across his path!

The night safari closed out spectacularly (we thought) as we came upon a mother and baby porcupine. Back in the safety of our room, there was more wildlife spotting to be had, on this and subsequent nights, as we discovered a skink (we think, or possibly a snake), making its home between the roof of our abode and the metal exterior rain covering, that would occasionally slither down and show various lengths of its tail through the central hole in the roof through which the mosquito net was hung, and innumerable lizards, spiders, geckos and insects (most of whom were thankfully confined outside the mosquito net)… until I realized that those that weren’t were gaining entry through a variety of gaping holes at various points within the mosquito net. We came to do a routine “wildlife check” as soon as we entered the treehouse, hoping upon hope that the snake of the former rooftop skin would not have taken up residence inside, or worse, in our bed. Upon one of these thorough checks we actually discovered (with great delight) that a baby bat had flown in and roosted below our bed. At this point we knew we were part of the jungle!

Of all jungle creatures to cross or potentially cross my path, I admit I was most concerned about the leeches, given the time of year we were there, their prevalence in the area, and our proclivity to trek, hike, bushwhack, and swim in the rivers and lakes. We were pretty much guaranteed to “experience the leeches,” and indeed, we did not escape unscathed. In the most well-known book about this area, “Waterfalls and Gibbon Calls,” conservationist Thom Henley writes: “Perhaps by now you too are a living part of this rainforest ecosystem – even if not by choice… more than likely you’ve provided a meal for a hungry leech. Take comfort in knowing that your few drops of blood have quickly become part of the oldest living ecosystem on Earth.” Although I appreciate Henley’s reassuring and calming explanation of suffering a leech bite, I’m happy to adhere to certain limits at my ecosystem contributions. Henley continues: “If you are trekking in the rainy season, leeches may become your preoccupation. Rather than let leeches spoil your experience, try a little game with your hiking companions. The Khao Sok point system is simple: attached leech = 1 point, drawn blood = 2 points, fed & escaped = 5 points; inside undershorts = 10 points. Whoever scores highest gets treated to Bloody Marys back at the bungalow.” …I won, hands down.

See more of Amy's thoughts @ "Making the Easy Choice" http://www.amyehale.com/

Eco Lives: Mark Philip-Sorensen

Maybe I was born eco! Since I was a child my family surrounded me by animals and nature which made me always aware of the impact I (and others) had on our environment. Despite my love for all things green, I went into a more conventional career, but after spending fourteen years in the corporate world I decided it was time to try something different. Years of driving around the UK in a suit was taking its toll on both family and home life and I wanted more for my wife, three children and myself. Both my wife, Lizzie and I agreed that we wanted to run a business which would enable people to become greener and give our children a future they could believe in.

For my family, the seeds of www.moreeco.com began with an interest in buying the best, nutritional and quality food, which, after research, we found to be local and organic produce - without the chemicals. After sourcing organic and natural cleansing products for our children, Lizzie quickly turned her attention to her own facial products and cosmetics and became a fan of brands such as Lavera and Beauty Without Cruelty. We also became more aware of the environmental issues associated with buying organic products and soon realised there were social factors too and wanted to consciously buy from smaller and independent retailers.

Both Lizzie and I wanted to get the children involved in a greener lifestyle too - not turning them into little green radicals, but being given an opportunity to educate them through practice so that it became second nature. Even now, whenever I go to the recycling centre I usually take my kids with me so they understand what I am doing. They take it all in their stride and think that it's a great afternoon out!

As we talked about what we were doing for the planet, such as switching our car insurance to a green supplier at no extra cost, a lot of our friends began to follow suit. Even Lizzie's sister who used to throw everything away is now separating her waste and recycling it. It's like school and peer pressure. Slowly and almost sub-consciously people change their choices. The key is for it not to be led by marketers who make money out of the being moreeco concept and then rapidly ditch it.

It was this point we thought we had the idea for www.moreeco.com. As a couple we were both avid online shoppers and keen to be rewarded for our loyalty but we realised that there was difficulty in finding decent online eco shops in one accessible place. Within a year and just before my 35th birthday, www.moreeco.com was born.

Our aim is to bring together and reward the conscious consumer and eco, organic, ethical and natural retailer. By shopping through www.moreeco.com you can save more money and be rewarded for your loyalty.

Our business is not purely about a guilty-free purchase through a simple carbon offsetting process from the typical high street shop. Instead moreeco offers a choice of true (often smaller and independent) companies with being moreeco at their core. Then we reward their members for their moreeco loyalty with some fantastic rewards.

I think it is never too late to change your shopping habits, and hope that moreeco shopping will become popular and an instinctive way of life for many. Small steps by a lot of people make a big collective difference.

Traveleco readers can get 700 free points instead of the standard 500 when they sign up to www.moreeco.com. Please enter travel09 in the promotional code box.
To find out how you can become greener and make small steps to a better life for you and the planet, why not visit our blog at www.bemoreeco.com

Eco Lives: James H. Spear, Jr.

I have been resident in China since January 1986. In the Spring of that year I first came to Mutianyu Great Wall as a casual visitor. I was entranced by the dramatic, craggy mountains and the impossible construction of the Wall. Exploring the pine forests, orchards, and tiny villages in the area was the perfect antidote to downtown Beijing, where I lived and worked. On one visit to Mutianyu in the early 1990s I sat on a rock to rest after walking down from the Wall. A local guy selling tee-shirts struck up a conversation with me. I think he wanted me to buy a tee-shirt but I bought a house instead.

Actually, as we were chatting I told him how much I envied him to be able to live in such a beautiful natural environment with fresh air and blue skies and that one of my dreams had always been to be able to live under the Great Wall. He immediately said, I'll help you find a place. And he did. As a "laowai" I would never have found my way into a Chinese village to acquire a home but it was just this accidental, magical encounter that changed my life.

For many years our house in Mutianyu was a weekend retreat but some years ago when our kids were off to university my wife and I decided to live full time in the village. The first thing I did was rebuild our peasant's house into something suitable for year-round living. I finally got my Great Wall view study and a view shower to boot. Friends liked the house and one thing led to another and now I've designed and built over 20 homes in the area for foreigners and Chinese alike, including the guest houses we are now able to offer as The Schoolhouse Rental Homes.

I'm afraid to say that we got into the tourism business just as accidentally as I found my house here. When I moved out here full-time the village mayor sat me down and told me that in case I hadn't noticed the village folk were having a hard time. Jobs were scarce and the community with 500 years of history was being pulled apart as the young people just moved away. He told me they had welcomed me into their village and that it was about time for me to give something back. He said I was a rich foreigner and I should make an investment in Mutianyu. So I had to be kicked in the pants.

With the unanimous agreement of the village council we took a long-term lease on the abandoned village primary school and have revamped it into an art glass worskshop, and art gallery, and a restaurant. Over time we've added two other restaurants and a lodging business and also are spreading our projects into other nearby villages. We didn't start out with a big philosophy but over time we're developing a very concrete sense of what it means to be sustainable in the context of a local community. We've gotten a lot of attention and support from the Beijing government as the authorities here are grappling with how to deliver better life chances to rural folk without the countryside emptying out, a dilemma that recurs all over the developing world.

Anyway, I've always believed that the perfect is the enemy of the good enough so we are simply perservering and making incremental improvements in our approaches to social and environmental sustainability. The process of getting certified with 3 Green Stars by Eco Hotels of the World gave me ideas how we can continue to do better, so now we're shooting for 4 stars!

You can see Jim’s property here.